Things have been getting a little crazy over here ever since Algeria's soccer team first entered Cairo. It was made worse after Egypt lost to Algeria in Sudan on Wednesday. My media teacher told me on Thursday morning that 12 Egyptians had been killed in Sudan by Algerian football fans. I haven't heard anyone else saying anything about it and am 95% sure that this is false, but I have heard several accounts now of Algerian fans coming after Egyptian fans with knives after the game. The news reports I've been reading have been saying drastically different things. Egyptians were attacking Algerians; Algerians were attacking Egyptians; everyone peacefully parted ways after the game without the slightest fuss. I don't trust a lot of the things I hear here in Egypt (many have said that the Algerian soccer players injured themselves when they got to Cairo), and international news sources tend to talk about Egypt and Algeria in sensationalized and often racist terms, but there is definitely something going down and I want the full (and factual) story. President Mubarak has recalled the Egyptian ambassador from Algiers and is talking about "defending Egyptians' dignity," while calling for Algerian officials to ensure the protection of Egyptian citizens in Algeria. I passed by a protest in front of the Algerian embassy Thursday night while celebrating my birthday, but I wasn't around when people started flipping police cars and stuff. See here for a video of the riots: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/8369983.stm. I don't know how much international coverage this is getting, if any, but it's all anyone's talking about here.
(Yes, things are a little crazy and some people are getting a little rowdy downtown, but I assure that I am safe and everything is ok.)
For the most part, however, I was in my own little American world this weekend (for better or worse). Birthday celebrations included beers, karaoke, staying in my apartment for the first time, and a rowdy and mish munasib (not appropriate) 80s-themed felucca ride. Mostly the felucca ride was a chance for drunk heterosexual Americans to get away from the gender segregated dorms and make out with each other, but there was also a lot of dancing and I had some good chats with some friends from class. The two Egyptian guys who were running the felucca wanted me to take pictures of them kissing each other. While I thought this was totally awesome, I was also surprised by how open they were being about it. Of course, then one of the guys went around trying to kiss all the girls on the boat and ended up getting punched in the face by a girl from my class. Most of the time I feel horribly embarassed whenever I am in a large group of Americans, especially a large group of drunk Americans, because they inevitably make fools of themselves or are otherwise loud and obnoxious or just plain offensive. I'm not going to lie and say that I didn't have a good time, because I did, it's just that a lot of the stuff that was going on on the boat were not Egypt-appropriate, and if I hadn't had a few drinks I would have felt extremely uncomfortable. On the other hand, sometimes it is nice to have an outlet in which to let loose and forget about what's "appropriate" for a few hours.
Anyway, I will be 22 in a few hours. I guess that's pretty cool. Time to study for my next media exam.
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Saturday, November 14, 2009
bahbak ya masr!!
This weekend was awesome! Mostly because of sports. Egypt played against Algeria (their archrival) here in Cairo on Sunday to qualify for the World Cup, and things got a little crazy. First of all, the Algerian team was attacked on Friday when they arrived in Cairo, and three players were injured. The two teams have a fairly violent history. Apparently, in 1989, an Algerian player struck the Egyptian team's doctor in the eye with a glass bottle (or something like that), causing him to go permanently blind. Interpol just dropped the arrest warrant on the Algerian player this past April. After some threats from FIFA following the attack on Friday, Cairo stepped up its security a bit, and the game went on in a fairly peaceful manner. And what an exciting game it was! Egypt needed to win by two points in order to still be considered for the World Cup, and they did it! Egypt won 2-0 by scoring in the first and last minutes of the game. Now the two teams are tied in the rankings, and will play again in Sudan on Wednesday. I watched the game in Rehab, on the outskirts of Cairo, with a few friends. After the game, the streets were filled with people who were making flamethrowers out of hairspray and lighters, or standing on top of moving cars, all cheering and shouting. It reminded me of what Franklin St. was like when UNC beat Duke at a home basketball game, except Egyptians do this sober. If it was that crazy in Rehab (which doesn't usually have a lot going on), I can only imagine what it must have been like downtown or in Nasr City, where the stadium is. I took a lot of great pictures, but they all got deleted somehow when I tried to upload them onto my computer. Fortunately, Dana got some good ones too:
Ahmed hooking me up with some face paint.
Celebrating the victory!
Ahmed hooking me up with some face paint.
Celebrating the victory!
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
Plans for the Future
I found an apartment last night! Dana and I will be living downtown with a French guy named Hugo. The whole mixed gender thing is generally frowned upon in Egypt, but either the landlord doesn't care, or we're getting an exception because we're foreigners. The apartment is right off one of the main squares, on the fifth floor, with an old glass elevator that feels like it's straight out of Wonka's chocolate factory. There are balconies off of every room, an oven, a washing machine, and one and a half bathrooms (with hot water!). It's also fully furnished, with a couch wrapping around most of the living room. And it's only 1,000LE (about $181) per month, with maybe an extra 100LE for utilities. It's walking distance to the metro, two liquor stores, about a hundred shisha cafes, al-Hurriya (the bar with 8LE Stellas), and just about anything else a bunch of Western grad students could want. The room that will become mine has two twin beds (which will be very good when the 'rents come to visit or when friends want a place to crash on the weekends), and it's also the only room with air conditioning (which I'll probably never use). I can't wait to move in and start cooking real food! I don't want to eat ramen ever again. We move in next month!
Moving on from that excitement... I had two midterm exams this week and I have one left. I didn't do as well as I was expecting to on the Fusha vocab exam, but I think I aced the Egyptian colloquial exam. My ECA exam was open book, which I thought was a bit strange for a language exam, but I liked the format. We each sat at our own computer with a headset, and had to listen to the questions in Arabic and record our responses.
Tomorrow is my Fusha grammar midterm. It will be difficult, because there's a lot of things to keep in mind, but oh my god, I love Arabic grammar so much. I love its rules and organization, and how lyrical it is when produced correctly. The more Arabic I learn, the more I want to learn, and also the more I understand the value of poetry in Arab culture. I appreciate Egyptian Arabic as well, but I don't connect with it as well. On the one hand, it is still new to me and my ear is still adjusting to it, but still, I'm not sure I'll ever be able to speak it fluently. I have enough difficulty expressing myself verbally in English, so how can I hope to do so in Arabic? I think too much before I speak and I'm just not chatty enough to be able to speak it smoothly and with confidence. But I won't lose all hope just yet. Maybe someday I'll get it. But what I think I would be really good at and would really enjoy is translating Arabic texts, particularly Arabic literature. I would love to just bury myself in written Arabic for the rest of my life. This is the new dream. I'll teach English and take Arabic classes until I'm good enough to translate full-time. AUC is considering adding a master's program in translation, and when they do, I will be all over that. I can't believe there used to be a time when I thought Arabic was not important for me and my studies!
And finally, I will leave you with some links. My brain is starved for stimulating conversation and debate, so I've been burying myself in blogs. Most of my favorite articles come from Jos, my fellow Hampshire grad. Go figure. The first is on the UN's consideration for transgendered people in a report on counter-terrorism measures, and the second is on hate crime legislation and how it actually hurts the marginalized groups it claims to be protecting. Both are definitely worth reading, even if you don't agree.
http://www.feministing.com/archives/018501.html
http://www.feministing.com/archives/016825.html
Moving on from that excitement... I had two midterm exams this week and I have one left. I didn't do as well as I was expecting to on the Fusha vocab exam, but I think I aced the Egyptian colloquial exam. My ECA exam was open book, which I thought was a bit strange for a language exam, but I liked the format. We each sat at our own computer with a headset, and had to listen to the questions in Arabic and record our responses.
Tomorrow is my Fusha grammar midterm. It will be difficult, because there's a lot of things to keep in mind, but oh my god, I love Arabic grammar so much. I love its rules and organization, and how lyrical it is when produced correctly. The more Arabic I learn, the more I want to learn, and also the more I understand the value of poetry in Arab culture. I appreciate Egyptian Arabic as well, but I don't connect with it as well. On the one hand, it is still new to me and my ear is still adjusting to it, but still, I'm not sure I'll ever be able to speak it fluently. I have enough difficulty expressing myself verbally in English, so how can I hope to do so in Arabic? I think too much before I speak and I'm just not chatty enough to be able to speak it smoothly and with confidence. But I won't lose all hope just yet. Maybe someday I'll get it. But what I think I would be really good at and would really enjoy is translating Arabic texts, particularly Arabic literature. I would love to just bury myself in written Arabic for the rest of my life. This is the new dream. I'll teach English and take Arabic classes until I'm good enough to translate full-time. AUC is considering adding a master's program in translation, and when they do, I will be all over that. I can't believe there used to be a time when I thought Arabic was not important for me and my studies!
And finally, I will leave you with some links. My brain is starved for stimulating conversation and debate, so I've been burying myself in blogs. Most of my favorite articles come from Jos, my fellow Hampshire grad. Go figure. The first is on the UN's consideration for transgendered people in a report on counter-terrorism measures, and the second is on hate crime legislation and how it actually hurts the marginalized groups it claims to be protecting. Both are definitely worth reading, even if you don't agree.
http://www.feministing.com/archives/018501.html
http://www.feministing.com/archives/016825.html
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Hampshire Pride
Sometimes I am so proud to be a Hampshire graduate. I met some amazing people, some of whom are already doing amazing things with their lives. While scrolling through some my favorite blogs, I came across this interview with a friend of mine, Jos Truitt. Jos speaks very well about privilege and the intersections of identities, particularly as it relates to feminism and queer issues. These are the conversations I had at Hampshire, and why I feel such a lack of intellectual stimulation now that I'm gone. Please check it out:
www.feministing.com/archives/018770.html#more
www.feministing.com/archives/018770.html#more
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Ramblings about privilege
I know it hasn't been long since my last post, but I just want to mention a few things. First of all, I figured out how to change some of the settings so that people who don't have a blogspot account can still comment on my entries. So, comment away!
Second of all, I am very much aware of how shallow this blog is, and it really bothers me. It certainly serves its purpose of letting friends and family back home know what I'm doing, but oh God, how I miss academia and Hampshire conversations! I miss talking about identity and power and privilege. I miss feeling uncomfortable during discussions, because it usually meant I was learning something. I mean, here I am, an able-bodied, middle-class, white American who is able to study (towards no degree, I might add) in Egypt thanks to the trust fund my grandfather set up for me, and the only person I'm discussing privilege with is myself. And I still haven't figured out how exactly that privilege transfers to Egypt. Living on campus at an American University is a strange experience indeed. I am more or less oblivious to the subtle manifestations of privilege and power (institutional or otherwise) surrounding gender, race, religion, sexuality, etc. in Cairo. Sometimes it is more obvious, like when my Arabic teacher won't let Sarah, one of my classmates, play a taxi driver in a role-playing exercise because women can't be taxi drivers. The religious aspect is more apparent in the news, such as the debates around the niqab, or the government killing all the pigs (which are raised by the Copts) allegedly because of swine flu. The sexuality aspect is one I am particulalry cognizant of, especially since I am dating an Egyptian man. But as for sexual orientation, I quickly learned that I should not talk openly (such as in a blog?) about the past relationships I've had with women, or about my own queer identity. But ask me what it's like to be an American woman living in Cairo, and I'd have to tell you that honestly I'm not really sure. Like I said, I live on an American campus, where most of my friends are also American, or at least international. Even though the school is 80% Egyptian, I don't think I can name a single Egyptian student, except for Mona, the grad student who substitute taught my colloquial Arabic class today. I know this is largely because I am in the ALI department, which is geared more towards non-native speakers of Arabic, but still. The social scene is very divided, and as far as I can tell, the school does very little to integrate the international students into the larger student body. The fact that it is difficult (and expensive) to get off campus only increases my inability to become familiar with and therefore adjust to Cairene life. I know I've idealized getting an apartment as the solution to all of my problems, but I really hope that actually living in Cairo will help me figure a lot of this stuff out.
Second of all, I am very much aware of how shallow this blog is, and it really bothers me. It certainly serves its purpose of letting friends and family back home know what I'm doing, but oh God, how I miss academia and Hampshire conversations! I miss talking about identity and power and privilege. I miss feeling uncomfortable during discussions, because it usually meant I was learning something. I mean, here I am, an able-bodied, middle-class, white American who is able to study (towards no degree, I might add) in Egypt thanks to the trust fund my grandfather set up for me, and the only person I'm discussing privilege with is myself. And I still haven't figured out how exactly that privilege transfers to Egypt. Living on campus at an American University is a strange experience indeed. I am more or less oblivious to the subtle manifestations of privilege and power (institutional or otherwise) surrounding gender, race, religion, sexuality, etc. in Cairo. Sometimes it is more obvious, like when my Arabic teacher won't let Sarah, one of my classmates, play a taxi driver in a role-playing exercise because women can't be taxi drivers. The religious aspect is more apparent in the news, such as the debates around the niqab, or the government killing all the pigs (which are raised by the Copts) allegedly because of swine flu. The sexuality aspect is one I am particulalry cognizant of, especially since I am dating an Egyptian man. But as for sexual orientation, I quickly learned that I should not talk openly (such as in a blog?) about the past relationships I've had with women, or about my own queer identity. But ask me what it's like to be an American woman living in Cairo, and I'd have to tell you that honestly I'm not really sure. Like I said, I live on an American campus, where most of my friends are also American, or at least international. Even though the school is 80% Egyptian, I don't think I can name a single Egyptian student, except for Mona, the grad student who substitute taught my colloquial Arabic class today. I know this is largely because I am in the ALI department, which is geared more towards non-native speakers of Arabic, but still. The social scene is very divided, and as far as I can tell, the school does very little to integrate the international students into the larger student body. The fact that it is difficult (and expensive) to get off campus only increases my inability to become familiar with and therefore adjust to Cairene life. I know I've idealized getting an apartment as the solution to all of my problems, but I really hope that actually living in Cairo will help me figure a lot of this stuff out.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Oh, internet gluttony...
My internet is fixed! Which means my productivity level has plummeted over the past 24 hours. I'm also sick with a pretty bad cold, which doesn't help my motivation. Going to the health clinic was an interesting experience. I was told to drink warm water with salt, and they gave me lozenges for my neck. I was like, I'm pretty sure you mean gargle the salt water, not drink it, and I think you mean my throat, not my neck. I was reminded of an email Kace sent me a couple years ago about her first experience in a pharmacy in China. She told them something like her hair was on fire when she meant to say she had a fever. At least I didn't have to rely on my Arabic for treatment. Who knows what I would have told them.
Last Thursday was a pretty busy day. I had my media midterm, which went really well. It was difficult, and I definitely needed to study as hard as I did, but my efforts really paid off. My room is still covered in notecards with words like "eminent delegation," "his royal highness," and "deputy" in Arabic. Thursday night there was a Halloween party across the street from campus (I didn't think anyone actually lived out here yet), and I got to forget about studying for a few hours. I went dressed as a bro-dude, where I generally made everyone uncomfortable with my androgyny. I had drawn on some facial hair, and one guy said, pointing to my shoulder and then my face, "so, the tattoo is real, and the soul patch is fake, right?" Correct. The soul patch drawn on in glittery brown eyeliner is fake, and a sunflower would be a pretty lame tattoo to just draw on if I was going as a bro-dude. Good job. Overall, the party was pretty weird. There were drinks available, and I realized just how low my alcohol tolerance has gotten since I've been here. It was mostly international students from all over the place: America, France, Lebanon, Bahrain, Norway, etc. I met some cool new people, but there was something still weird about it. I didn't get that feeling of bonding with people that I did from Hampshire parties. I had a great time, but I still felt somewhat disconnected, like something was missing. I guess I'm still adjusting to the AUC social scene and to Egypt in general.
(me with two of my suitemates, Anne the grad student and Dana the hipster. Shukran to Dana for the picture)
Actual Halloween was fairly uneventful. Danielle's mom sent her candy and clove cigarettes (which are now illegal in the states), which she was nice enough to share. I used to smoke cloves on occasion at Simon's Rock, and seeing as they're no longer available in the states, I thought I'd let myself enjoy just one. I think the clove, plus the weather change (it's unusually cold in Egypt right now), plus not enough sleep is what made me sick. Speaking of sleep, I still haven't slept through the night, but at least the nightmares have stopped.
Now I am getting psyched about November. Lots of birthdays this month (mine and Dana's are two days apart = party time!), new apartment (inshallah), more midterms, and Thanksgiving! I feel most like myself when I'm busy and stressed, so this should be a great month. Anyone who wants to send me a card (not necessary, but would be greatly appreciated) should probably do so now, cos it takes about three weeks for things to get here from the states. Here's a repost of my address:
Carol Campbell (*has to be my legal name because I have to present my ID in order to get my mail)
American University in Cairo
New Cairo Campus
AUC Avenue, P.O. Box 74
New Cairo 11835, Egypt.
Sending lots of November love!
Last Thursday was a pretty busy day. I had my media midterm, which went really well. It was difficult, and I definitely needed to study as hard as I did, but my efforts really paid off. My room is still covered in notecards with words like "eminent delegation," "his royal highness," and "deputy" in Arabic. Thursday night there was a Halloween party across the street from campus (I didn't think anyone actually lived out here yet), and I got to forget about studying for a few hours. I went dressed as a bro-dude, where I generally made everyone uncomfortable with my androgyny. I had drawn on some facial hair, and one guy said, pointing to my shoulder and then my face, "so, the tattoo is real, and the soul patch is fake, right?" Correct. The soul patch drawn on in glittery brown eyeliner is fake, and a sunflower would be a pretty lame tattoo to just draw on if I was going as a bro-dude. Good job. Overall, the party was pretty weird. There were drinks available, and I realized just how low my alcohol tolerance has gotten since I've been here. It was mostly international students from all over the place: America, France, Lebanon, Bahrain, Norway, etc. I met some cool new people, but there was something still weird about it. I didn't get that feeling of bonding with people that I did from Hampshire parties. I had a great time, but I still felt somewhat disconnected, like something was missing. I guess I'm still adjusting to the AUC social scene and to Egypt in general.
(me with two of my suitemates, Anne the grad student and Dana the hipster. Shukran to Dana for the picture)
Actual Halloween was fairly uneventful. Danielle's mom sent her candy and clove cigarettes (which are now illegal in the states), which she was nice enough to share. I used to smoke cloves on occasion at Simon's Rock, and seeing as they're no longer available in the states, I thought I'd let myself enjoy just one. I think the clove, plus the weather change (it's unusually cold in Egypt right now), plus not enough sleep is what made me sick. Speaking of sleep, I still haven't slept through the night, but at least the nightmares have stopped.
Now I am getting psyched about November. Lots of birthdays this month (mine and Dana's are two days apart = party time!), new apartment (inshallah), more midterms, and Thanksgiving! I feel most like myself when I'm busy and stressed, so this should be a great month. Anyone who wants to send me a card (not necessary, but would be greatly appreciated) should probably do so now, cos it takes about three weeks for things to get here from the states. Here's a repost of my address:
Carol Campbell (*has to be my legal name because I have to present my ID in order to get my mail)
American University in Cairo
New Cairo Campus
AUC Avenue, P.O. Box 74
New Cairo 11835, Egypt.
Sending lots of November love!
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